Xemxija | Exploring Malta
Xemxija is a locality and seaside resort located in the Northern Region of Malta. The village is situated along the western shores of Xemxija Bay, which is a small bay within the much larger St. Paul’s Bay. It is today considered a suburb, making up the western part of the town of St. Paul’s Bay. The bay’s shores are home to a number of hotels and restaurants, but there are also extensive residential areas along the slopes of the hill. The name Xemxija is pronounced “shem-shee-ya”.
The character of Xemxija is that of a relatively quiet coastal resort that is rich in ancient history. Its identity is defined by its scenic bay and the famous Xemxija Hill Heritage Walk, which showcases a high concentration of archaeological sites. This historical and natural atmosphere exists alongside its modern function as a residential area and a smaller, more relaxed tourist destination compared to the much busier nearby resorts of Buġibba and Qawra. The village’s waterfront promenade and its small harbor for pleasure boats are key features of its landscape.
Blog Posts From our visits to Xemxija
The History of Xemxija
The history of Xemxija is the story of an area with a continuous history of human settlement that stretches back thousands of years to prehistoric times. For centuries, it was a rural and undeveloped part of the coastline. Its modern history began with the construction of a coastal battery by the Knights of St. John. The area was transformed into a residential and tourist hub in the late 20th century. This journey from an ancient landscape to a modern resort defines its past.
Prehistoric and Roman Remains
The hills around Xemxija are home to several important archaeological sites that tell the story of the people who lived here since prehistoric times. This includes the remains of megalithic temples from the Neolithic period, which are among the oldest man-made structures in the world. During the Roman period, the area was also significant. The remains of a Roman road, a Roman apiary for beekeeping, and ancient cave dwellings have all been discovered on the hill overlooking the bay. This indicates that the area was an important part of the rural landscape of Roman Malta.
The Knights and a Sunny Battery
The more modern history of the area begins with the Order of Saint John. In the early 18th century, the Knights built the Arrias Battery, a coastal fortification, to protect the bay. The name Xemxija is believed to have come from this battery. The name translates from Maltese to “sunny,” and the battery received this nickname due to its location on the sunny side of the bay. The military purposes of the battery were discontinued a long time ago. The building has been restored and today houses a restaurant.
Modern Resort Development
For a long time, the Xemxija area remained a very quiet and rural part of the coast, with only a few farmhouses. It was not until the 1980s that the area began to develop as a major residential and tourist area. This was a time of rapid construction in Malta. Several large apartment blocks and hotels were built along the coast and on the slopes of the hill. This development eventually turned the quiet bay into the small seaside resort and residential suburb that it is today.
Sights in Xemxija
With the heritage trail as the main attraction, it is easy to forget that there are plenty more sights to see in and around Xemxija. The number of historical fortifications might be a bit more limited than along other parts of the Maltese coast. However, there are Roman remains and a major nature reserve to explore around the small community.
Xemxija Heritage Trail
The Xemxija Heritage Trail, also known as the Roman Road, is the main historical attraction in the area. The trail is a marked path that leads up the hill on the western side of the bay. The trail showcases a high concentration of historical and archaeological sites. Key sites include the remains of two megalithic temples, a Roman apiary, ancient cave dwellings, and a Roman bath. The path partly follows an old Roman road, which was also known as the Pilgrims Way. The trail provides a unique journey through thousands of years of Maltese history.
The Thousand-Year-Old Carob Tree
Located along the Xemxija Heritage Trail is a tree that might actually be the oldest tree in Malta. The large carob tree measures around 7.25 meters in circumference. It is estimated to be approximately 1,000 years old. The carob tree is an indigenous species in Malta and has been an important part of the local agriculture for centuries. The tree is a protected natural monument and a key point of interest on the heritage walk.
Is-Simar Nature Reserve
Located at the bottom of St. Paul’s Bay, a short walk from Xemxija, is the Is-Simar Nature Reserve. This is an area of artificial wetlands that was created in the 1990s by BirdLife Malta. The reserve has been transformed into a protected bird sanctuary with a mix of saltwater and freshwater habitats. It is an important site for migratory birds. The reserve has a visitor center and a series of birdwatching hides that are open to the public during the migration seasons.
Mistra Battery
The Mistra Battery is another historic fortification located just to the north of Xemxija, overlooking Mistra Bay. The artillery battery was built by the Order of Saint John in 1761. It was designed to protect the entrance to the bay. The battery is a large, semi-circular gun platform with a blockhouse at the rear. It was part of the extensive network of coastal defenses built by the Knights around the islands.
Beaches in Xemxija
The coastline around Xemxija is mostly rocky, but there are a few small beaches and swimming spots in the area. These provide opportunities to access the water of St. Paul’s Bay and the neighboring Mistra Bay.
Fekruna Beach
Fekruna Beach is a small, secluded bay located in the northeastern part of Xemxija. The bay is surrounded by cliffs and has a mix of rocks and a very small sandy area. It is not a large beach, but it is known for its clear water. The accessibility can be challenging.
Mistra Bay Beach
Mistra Bay Beach is located a bit further to the north, in the large bay of the same name. It is a small sandy beach at the head of the bay. The beach is located in a rural setting, away from the main urban area. A restaurant is located nearby.
Xemxija with Kids
The slower pace in Xemxija, compared to the much busier areas of Buġibba, St. Julian’s, and Sliema, can make it a more relaxed place to visit when traveling with kids. The main challenge is the lack of easy-to-find activities specifically for children, such as large public playgrounds. However, the short Ancient Heritage Trail is a possibility for an interesting walk with older kids, as long as it is not too hot outdoors. The walk allows for exploration of ancient caves and ruins, which can be an adventure for children.
Playgrounds in Xemxija
We have so far been unable to find any public playground in Xemxija. There might be some smaller playgrounds hiding from our explorations, but we will update here in case we find any in the future. For families seeking a large, modern playground, it would be necessary to travel to the nearby towns of St. Paul’s Bay or Buġibba, where several larger play areas are located. The lack of a central playground is a consideration for families with young children staying in the area.
Getting Around in Xemxija
Navigating the village of Xemxija and its immediate surroundings is best done on foot or by local bus. The village is spread out along the main coastal road. The heritage trail requires a walk up a steep hill.
On Foot: The Bay and Hill
Walking is a good way to explore the central part of Xemxija. The waterfront promenade runs along the main road. The Xemxija Heritage Trail is also a key walking route, though it is steep in sections. Comfortable shoes are essential for exploring the hill.
Local Buses
The public transport in Malta is based on an extensive network of buses operated by Malta Public Transport. Xemxija is located on a main bus corridor that connects the ferry terminal at Ċirkewwa with the main tourist resorts of St. Paul’s Bay and Sliema. Numerous bus routes pass through the village, providing frequent connections to all other parts of the island.
How to Get to Xemxija
Reaching the village of Xemxija is straightforward, as it is located on the main road in the northern part of the island of Malta. It is well-served by the national bus network.
The Open Road: Driving to Xemxija
Driving is a common way to reach Xemxija. The village is located directly on the main coastal road that runs around St. Paul’s Bay. From the area around the airport, the drive takes approximately 30-40 minutes, depending on traffic. Parking in the village can be difficult to find during the peak summer season, as street parking is limited.
Arriving by Air: Malta International Airport
The primary and sole gateway to the country is Malta International Airport (MLA). It is located in the town of Luqa, approximately 18 kilometers from Xemxija. The airport is well-connected to major cities across Europe, the Middle East, and North Africa. From the airport, a taxi, a ride-sharing service, or a direct public bus service (Route X1) can be used to reach Xemxija.
Connecting by Coach
There are no major long-distance coach services in Malta due to the small size of the island. The entire country is served by the integrated national bus network operated by Malta Public Transport. The main bus terminal is located just outside the city gates of Valletta. Several routes from this terminal, as well as direct routes from the airport and Sliema, serve Xemxija.
On Track: The Absence of Rail
There is no train service in Malta. The country does not have a railway network. Therefore, it is not possible to reach Xemxija by train. All overland travel on the island must be done by road.
An International Ferry Approach
It is possible to arrive in Malta by ferry. The main ferry terminal is located at the Valletta Waterfront. There are regular car and passenger ferry services that connect Malta with the port of Pozzallo in Sicily, Italy. From the ferry terminal in Valletta, it is a journey by bus or taxi to reach the town of Xemxija.
Driving Distances
The driving distance from 10 regional cities, according to Google Maps:
- Buġibba, Malta – 3 kilometers (0 h 10 min)
- Mellieħa, Malta – 6 kilometers (0 h 10 min)
- Mosta, Malta – 8 kilometers (0 h 20 min)
- Mdina, Malta – 10 kilometers (0 h 20 min)
- St. Julian’s, Malta – 12 kilometers (0 h 30 min)
- Sliema, Malta – 13 kilometers (0 h 30 min)
- Valletta, Malta – 15 kilometers (0 h 40 min)
- Birgu, Malta – 17 kilometers (0 h 40 min)
- Marsaxlokk, Malta – 22 kilometers (0 h 50 min)
- Marsaskala, Malta – 23 kilometers (0 h 50 min)
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This post was first published 2022-06-18 and was updated 2025-07-26
