Tetovo is a city in the northwestern part of North Macedonia. In Macedonian, that are using the Cyrillic alphabet, this is spelled Тетово. It is, however, also known by its Albanian names Tetovë and Tetova. A less-used name is the Turkish name Kalkandelen which was used for the city during the time of the Ottoman Empire. With a population of around 63.000 inhabitants, this is the 5th largest city in North Macedonia. This is a city with an Albanian majority with Albanians making up around 65% of the population.
Our Visit to Tetovo
We visited Tetovo in the summer of 2023. This was a stop on our way when going from Ohrid to Skopje. The stop gave us a chance to see some of what the city has to offer.
A Short History of Tetovo
This was once the location of the ancient town of Oaeneon. The first known written mention of the modern-day Tetovo dates back to the 13th century when this was only a small Orthodox settlement. The Ottoman conquest of these lands began already in the 14th century but encountered resistance. The Ottomans were, however, here to stay. The final conquest came in the 15th century, from which time Tetovo was ruled by the Ottomans for almost five centuries. Under Ottoman rule, many of the city’s inhabitants converted to Islam. This was also a period when the city was known by its Turkish name Kalkandelen. The development at the time was increased further with the establishment of a firearm and cannon foundry.
The World Wars
The Ottoman Rule was followed by a short period under Albanian control in the early 20th century. It was later conquered by the Kingdom of Serbia together with the rest of what is today North Macedonia. The World Wars saw temporary conquests of Tetovo. During the First World War, the area was occupied by the Kingdom of Bulgaria. The Second World War saw the area coming under Albanian control again as a part of the Italian protectorate of Albania. Following the wars, Tetovo became a part of the Socialist Republic of Macedonia within the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia.
Breakup of Yugoslavia
It was with the breakup of Yugoslavia that unrest began in Tetovo. Many of the local Albanians wanted the area to join Albania. The city and its inhabitants have since had many disputes with the central government in Skopje. The city has also played a role in other conflicts on the Balkan Peninsula. During the Bosnian War, Tetovo housed thousands of Bosnian Muslim refugees. Something similar occurred during the Kosovo War when it is estimated that the city housed over 100.000 refugees from Kosovo.
2001 Insurgency in Macedonia
Tetovo later also played a huge role in the 2001 Insurgency in Macedonia. This was an armed conflict within Macedonia between Macedonian forces and the National Liberation Army made up of ethnic Albanians, many with experience from the war in Kosovo. Tetovo and the surrounding area would eventually be the site of some of the most intense fighting between Macedonian police and security forces and the National Liberation Army. Even after the signing of the general ceasefire, fighting from insurgents in Tetovo continued. It was first with the Ohrid Framework Agreement later in the year that the conflict began to calm down.
Things to Do and See
Exploring the center of Tetovo will take you along a big variety of buildings. There are huge socialist modernist buildings such as the office of the Macedonian Post and the town square. These buildings and large open spaces are soon forgotten when entering the narrow small streets of the rest of Tetovo. These streets are usually lined by low-level houses, many being home to small businesses. Within these densely built neighborhoods, you may also encounter a mosque from time to time.
When it comes to the main sights, there are a few that are usually mentioned. The Ottoman legacy has left the Šarena Mosque dating back to 1438 and the Arabati Baba Teḱe from 1538. There are also the ruins of the Tetovo Fortress, a fortress that dates back to 1820. The possibility of accessing the fortress is unknown to us, but photos online tell of a magnificent view of the city.
How to Get to Tetovo
- Flights: The nearest major airport is Skopje International Airport (SKP) to the east.
- Car: Tetovo is located along the highway A2, between Skopje and Kičevo. There is also road R1203 leading towards the border with Kosovo.
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