Frascati, Lazio | Exploring Italy

Frascati is a historic commune in Italy’s Lazio region, nestled on the lower northern slopes of the Alban Hills. Located just 20 kilometers (12 miles) southeast of Rome, it offers panoramic views of the Eternal City. As a key part of the Castelli Romani, an area of volcanic hills renowned for ancient history, a refreshing climate, and esteemed white wine, Frascati boasts a population of approximately 22,000 as of 2024.

The town is celebrated for its stunning Renaissance and Baroque villas, often called Tusculan Villas. These magnificent estates, built by papal families and Roman aristocrats from the 16th century onwards, symbolized their wealth and status. Their name derives from the nearby ancient Roman settlement of Tusculum. Frascati’s appeal is multifaceted, combining rich heritage with beautiful landscapes and its famous white wine. It also serves as a scientific hub, hosting several international research laboratories.

Our Visit to Frascati

We visited Frascati in 2018 and climbed the slopes several times during our almost week-long visit. Pushing a stroller up the hills is hard to forget. The visit included several day trips, especially to Rome.

Sunset, Villa Tuscolana, Frascati, Lazio, Italy

A Short History

Frascati’s origins are deeply intertwined with the ancient city of Tusculum, once a significant Latin city and later a favored residential spot for wealthy Romans, including figures like Cicero. After Roman communal troops destroyed Tusculum in 1191, its surviving population dispersed. Many are believed to have settled in a wooded area, with the Italian word “frasche” (branches or woods) likely giving rise to Frascati’s name as this settlement eventually grew into the modern town.

During the Middle Ages, Frascati developed into a small, fortified town, steadily growing in importance. By the 15th century, it had become a feudal possession of various noble families. However, Frascati’s golden age truly began in the latter half of the 16th century and continued into the 17th. Wealthy Roman aristocrats and high-ranking clergy were drawn to Frascati for its cooler climate and scenic beauty, choosing it as the site for their magnificent summer residences. This era saw the construction of numerous splendid villas, designed by some of the most famous architects of the time. These villas were not merely homes; they also served as vibrant centers of culture and social life.

In 1538, Pope Paul III elevated Frascati to city status, granting it the name “Tusculum Novum.” The town suffered significant damage during World War II when Allied bombing targeted German military headquarters located there, particularly impacting some historic villas and the town center. Following post-war reconstruction and growth, Frascati has since evolved into a thriving residential town and a popular tourist destination, especially for day-trippers from Rome. Additionally, it has become a respected center for scientific research.

Things to Do and See

Frascati invites visitors to step back into an era of aristocratic grandeur. They can explore historical religious sites and enjoy the Alban Hills’ natural beauty. The town’s urban design elegantly weaves together architecture and inviting public spaces.

Basilica Cattedrale di San Pietro Apostolo

Frascati’s main square, Piazza San Pietro, is home to the Basilica Cattedrale di San Pietro Apostolo, the town’s principal Roman Catholic church. Construction began in 1598, with its Baroque facade, designed by Girolamo Fontana, added in the late 17th century. Though severely damaged by bombing in 1943 during World War II, the basilica was meticulously restored. Today, it houses notable artworks and the tombs of several historical figures, including the initial burial site of Bonnie Prince Charlie.

Villa Aldobrandini

Villa Aldobrandini stands as arguably Frascati’s most famous and imposing villa, perched on a hill offering breathtaking views. Commissioned by Cardinal Pietro Aldobrandini in 1598, its construction involved prominent architects like Giacomo della Porta and Carlo Maderno. The villa is celebrated for its magnificent Water Theatre (Teatro delle Acque), an elaborate nymphaeum featuring fountains, statues, and grottoes designed to impress and entertain. While the villa itself is private, its stunning gardens are often accessible to the public, providing a glimpse into Renaissance landscape design.

Villa Falconieri

One of the oldest Tusculan villas, Villa Falconieri, dates back to the mid-16th century, initially known as Villa Rufina. The Falconieri family significantly expanded and redesigned it in the 17th century, with contributions attributed to the renowned architect Francesco Borromini. This villa boasts beautiful frescoes and a large park with a cypress-lined lake. Today, it functions as a conference and education center, continuing its rich cultural history.

Villa Torlonia

Villa Torlonia was originally built in the 16th century for the Annibaleschi family, later passing to prominent families like the Ludovisi and Conti before the Torlonia family acquired it in the 19th century. Although its main building (casino) and famous “Teatro d’Acqua” by Carlo Maderno were destroyed in the 1943 bombing, its extensive park, now Parco Villa Torlonia, is a public space offering pleasant walks and green areas. Nearby, the Scuderie Aldobrandini, formerly Villa Aldobrandini’s stables, now house the Museo Tuscolano, an archaeological museum displaying artifacts from ancient Tusculum and the surrounding area.

Chiesa del Gesù

The elegant Baroque Chiesa del Gesù, designed by Jesuit architect Giovanni De Rosis, began construction in 1595 and was largely completed in the early 17th century. Its refined facade complements an interior renowned for Andrea Pozzo’s impressive trompe-l’oeil paintings, reflecting the Jesuit order’s influence in Frascati during the Counter-Reformation.

Piazza San Pietro and Piazza del Mercato

Piazza San Pietro, the main square, is dominated by the Cathedral and offers a lively atmosphere with various cafes and shops. Just nearby, Piazza del Mercato serves as Frascati’s traditional market square. This bustling spot provides an authentic slice of daily life where locals shop for fresh produce and other goods.

How to Get to Frascati

Reaching Frascati in the Castelli Romani is simple: fly into Rome’s Fiumicino (FCO) or Ciampino (CIA) airports and connect onward. For driving, use Italy’s A1 Autostrada del Sole or direct provincial roads like Via Anagnina (SS511) and Via Tuscolana (SS215). Buses via COTRAL link Frascati to nearby Lazio towns. The train offers a quick route: take a regional FL4 line train from Rome Termini or Tiburtina, or from Ciampino train station (accessible via shuttle from CIA airport), arriving centrally in Frascati.

By Plane

The most common way to reach Frascati from outside Italy is by flying into one of Rome’s international airports:

Leonardo da Vinci–Fiumicino Airport (FCO): Rome’s primary international airport, FCO handles a vast number of flights from around the globe. From FCO, you can easily connect to Frascati via train or by renting a car.
Ciampino–G. B. Pastine Airport (CIA): Primarily serving low-cost carriers, CIA is closer to Frascati than FCO. While fewer direct public transport options are available from CIA to Frascati, taxis and pre-booked transfers are readily available.

By Car

Driving to Frascati provides unparalleled flexibility, perfect for exploring the scenic Castelli Romani region at your own pace.

From Northern Italy: If approaching from the north, connect to the A1 Autostrada del Sole (Milan-Naples). Take the exit for “Monte Porzio Catone” or “San Cesareo” and follow signs for Frascati.
From Southern Italy: From the south, also utilize the A1 Autostrada del Sole. Look for exits like “San Cesareo” or “Valmontone” and then follow local signage towards Frascati.
From Coastal Areas (e.g., Lazio Coast): Depending on your starting point, you’ll generally head inland towards the A91 (from Fiumicino area) or direct provincial roads that intersect with routes leading to the Castelli Romani, such as the Via Anagnina (SS511) or Via Tuscolana (SS215) which lead directly into Frascati.

By Bus

Buses provide a valuable link to Frascati, especially for those traveling from nearby towns or preferring a direct ground route.

Regional Connections: COTRAL (Consorzio Trasporti Lazio) buses operate services connecting Frascati with various towns across the Lazio region, including other Castelli Romani municipalities. Check COTRAL schedules for routes originating from your specific location.
Airport Links (Indirect): While not direct airport-to-Frascati services, buses from Fiumicino or Ciampino airports can take you to larger transport hubs (like Ciampino train station or Rome’s Anagnina metro station), from which you can then take a regional bus or train to Frascati.

By Train

The train offers a swift and efficient way to reach Frascati, with its well-located station. The Frascati train station is conveniently situated within walking distance of the town’s main attractions, making it an excellent choice for a hassle-free arrival.

From Major Italian Cities: If you’re traveling from other major Italian cities (e.g., Florence, Naples, Milan), your journey will likely involve taking a high-speed or intercity train to Rome Termini or Rome Tiburtina station. From either of these, frequent regional trains (FL4 line) run directly to Frascati. The journey from Rome Termini to Frascati is typically around 30 minutes.
From Ciampino Train Station: For those arriving at Ciampino Airport (CIA), a short shuttle bus connects the airport to Ciampino train station. From here, regional trains to Frascati are frequent and quick.