Albania, a country that for years has been hiding from our radar, was for a long time one of the few countries in Europe that we hadn’t visited. Then eventually a travel opportunity occurred and a plan was created. Albania became my 45th-visited country on a solo trip to the capital Tirana. This is the story of how a family weekend in Albania became a solo trip, how a cold Sweden was replaced by a warm Albania, and how a beer in Stockholm can cost as much as an amazing dinner in Tirana.
Pre-departure Chaos
We were going to fly on Thursday evening from Stockholm Skavsta Airport and everything was planned when we dropped off Little A at preschool and we started our work for the day. It did, however, only take a few hours before our plans were disrupted. Little A had fallen badly at pre-school and was bleeding from a cut on her chin. So, we had to pick her up early and head to the health center in Trosa to have a look at the injury. We were lucky that they could have a look at her in Trosa when we arrived there unannounced. Unfortunately, we still had to go to the emergency room at the hospital in Nyköping as Little A needed to get stitches for her cut.
To the Emergency Room
Off to Nyköping, we went. Luckily it is not a very long distance, but still about 45 minutes from Trosa. But the health center in Trosa had at least been able to provide a band-aid so that Little A no longer noticed the cut. Once in the emergency room, it was just to wait for our turn as they came to the same conclusion that Little A needed 2-3 stitches. It did take some time before we were done. Little A had been really brave during the whole procedure and fortunately, it was nothing serious.
Decision Time
Next, we headed back home and Little A and I were back home about two hours before we needed to get going to the airport. Plenty of time according to some, such as the insurance company. For Little A this was not a time to stress to get her back in the car and head to the airport. She hadn’t eaten any lunch yet, she was tired and in need of rest. There was also plenty of blood on her clothes and in her hair. We came to the conclusion that it was not fair to stress and drag her to the airport after a day like this. I told Susann that she could go to Albania on her own if she wanted. However, in the end, I was the one who ended up at Stockholm Skavsta Airport waiting to board the flight to Tirana.
Wizz Air Flight to Tirana
It turned out to be a long wait to board the flight to Tirana. The aircraft had suffered delays during the whole day and our 19:45 departure was eventually delayed until 21:10. This resulted in me landing at Tirana Airport at 23:59, about an hour and 15 minutes late. Needless to say that I was happy to have arranged my transport to the hotel and looked forward to getting a good night’s sleep. Seeing where I had ended up had to wait until the next day. Considering how tired I was after the day’s events, I was quite happy that Little A was asleep at home.
Exploring Tirana on Foot
The weather forecast for the weekend had been grim. It was supposed to be raining almost every hour of the day and no likelihood of sunshine. So guess my surprise when I woke up and looked out. The sun was shining and it looked like it would be a nice day. Well, there were signs of rain during the night. But a puddle will have a bit more difficulty making you wet than continuous rainfall.
The First Hike of the Day
My initial walk took me along the Lana River and up the streets in the district of Blloku. Little did I then know that this was the up-and-coming district of Tirana with many bars and restaurants. Maybe I just didn’t take the right streets and visited the wrong time of the day this first time. Or maybe the impression was somehow halted by the fact that the Tirana Pyramid was closed for renovation.
Eventually, the walk took me back across the Lana River to Rinia Park, with the sun now shining and me just enjoying the warmer temperatures of Albania. This green area was soon replaced by the stone at Skanderbeg Square. The Skanderbeg Square is huge with many high-rise constructions in its vicinity. It is also not a flat surface, creating a weird feeling when walking across what looks like a small hill. From here it was just a short walk to the Tirana Castle, the fortress of the Toptani Family. It’s not so much a castle, as a tourist pedestrian street between the fortress walls. Luckily I had plenty of time for some lunch, but I still ended up with a hamburger as I was still to find out where to find an ATM that didn’t charge extra for withdrawals.
The Second Hike of the Day
After lunch, I set out walking once more. This time I had set my target on the park area around the artificial lake. This was the Grand Park of Tirana and I happened to only touch a small corner of it. My route to the park once more took me through the Blloku District. I walked past Mother Teresa Square and the Polytechnic University of Tirana, and the green park was soon in front of me. I walked across the small hill to the artificial lake and enjoyed the view out over the calm water.
Soon I was on my way back to the city and walked once more through the Blloku District. Not long after, I was back at Skanderbeg Square. By now I had to think about where to go next. The sun was still shining, but I still had to find an ATM and a nice place for dinner. The ATM was easily solved after finding recommendations online. I will not recommend any bank, as the conditions might have changed when you read this.
Evening Entertainment in Tirana
I left the ATM and had around 50 Euros in the local currency Lek. I was about to find out how far that would take me in regard to food and drinks. It would turn out to be quite sufficient for this whole weekend. I found a cozy grill restaurant and ordered a beer and some food. Luckily I was able to order a small version of the small grill plate. It was still more meat than I was able to eat. Lovely meat, but a lot. I left the restaurant with about 10 Euros less than when I arrived. But I had eaten so much that it was just to head back to the hotel for some rest. Traveling solo for me is not about heading out to a party, it is about enjoying the time.
Well, I sat down in the reception at the hotel for a beer instead this evening and found myself having a nice conversation with the receptionist. We were soon joined by an older American lady who had left the States and had spent the last months in Albania. The stories were quite interesting to listen to and traveling alone really opens up the possibility of discussions with almost anyone you meet.
Relaxing in the Rain
I was not as lucky with the weather during my second day in Tirana. I spent the time just strolling around in the center and along streets towards the eastern side of the city. It rained from time to time, so it took some time to get around. I finally made it to a restaurant for some lunch, a good pasta carbonara while waiting for the rain to subside.
Learning About Albanian History
Once I was done with the meal, I just made it a short distance before it started to rain again, so I headed into the underground. No, Tirana does not have a metro. The underground here is the old bunkers and close to Skanderbeg Square is one of the Bunk’Art museums. A perfect way to learn more about Albania’s troubled past. The stories told here in the underground are gruesome.
The reign of Enver Hoxha sounds so similar to many of the other communist countries in this part of Europe. There is just something about mixing the Sigurimi with their collaborators providing information about neighbors and family and the forced labor camps housing family members of anyone believed to be working against the regime. Hoxha reigned from 1941 until 1985. The Directorate of State Security, the Sigurimi, was disbanded in 1991. It is unimaginable for any outsiders such as me to understand how life in Albania was prior to this date.
Last Evening in Tirana
The day strolling around in the rain, once more, ended with a nice dinner of grilled delicacies with tzatziki and bread. Then it was back to the hotel to rest and see what could be arranged for the last day in Tirana. I had to check in online for the flight and arrange for transport to the airport. Which, by the way, was quite interesting. Wizz Air during their online check-in process first asked me if I wanted to pay around 50 euros to check in at the airport instead. Once I declined and filled in the information online, I was still directed to check in at the airport. This time for free. With low-cost airlines like Wizz Air, always check what you are actually paying for and if you actually need to pay it.
Getting Ready for Departure
When I woke up on Sunday, the last morning in Tirana, the sun was shining. That is a really nice feeling, knowing that I in the evening would be back home in my cold and dark Sweden. So I started my morning by checking out from the hotel and heading out for a walk. This time I started by heading toward the District of Blloku, finding out that there were a lot of stores and restaurants on the streets that I had previously missed.
I strolled around in the center of Tirana for a few hours, checking out commercial streets and eventually finding my way to the Observator Wine and Piano Bar, just to be able to enjoy an amazing view of the city and surrounding mountains. Afterward, I had just enough time for a last lunch at a local grill restaurant before heading back to the hotel and my waiting taxi.
Friendly Co-Travelers
It was an uneventful drive to the airport with the same driver who had picked me up a few days earlier. He tried his best to communicate in English and I got to learn more about “how bad Albanians drive”. One thing that was really apparent during my whole weekend was how friendly everyone was. Especially my fellow passengers on the flight back to Sweden. Maybe it has something to do with that many are traveling alone for work etc.
I happened to sit next to an Albanian couple on my way down to Tirana and the man was actually on the same flight back. We started to talk again in the small tax-free shop and I could get a few recommendations on what was good. Later on at the gate, I run into a guy that had been standing next to me in the check-in queue, which ended up in a few minutes of talking. Then a second guy that was on the same flight to Tirana started to talk with me as well. Let’s just say this. Friendly and interesting discussions really made the two hours of waiting for our flight just run by.
Flight Home from Tirana International Airport
Once on the plane, I ended up next to two older Albanian ladies who didn’t really seem happy with flying. I was quite happy when the flight attendant asked me if I wanted to move two rows back, to the emergency exit row. The woman next to me wanted to have her sister sitting next to her. Well, more legroom and no grumpy worried ladies. I was out of the seat before she changed her mind. It was eventually asleep prior to taking off and woke up when we started our descent to Stockholm Skavsta Airport. A nice weekend getaway had come to an end. Luckily there are more trips to look forward to in the coming weeks.
