Wrocław & Poznań | Summer Adventure in Poland 2024

The summer of 2024 developed into a season of extensive travel for our family. We had already completed a long Arctic Tour to Nordkapp in June and enjoyed a weekend getaway to Tallinn earlier in July. However, the travel season was not quite over. Before our final upcoming trip to Kaunas at the end of the month, there was time for one more journey. While Little A spent part of her school break visiting cousins on the Åland Islands with Susann, I took the opportunity to head south for a solo adventure in Poland. My plan was straightforward: to explore Wrocław and Poznań, two major cities in western Poland that I had never visited before. I packed my bags for what promised to be a historical, albeit very hot, journey.

Flying from Stockholm Arlanda Airport

The trip began with a late evening flight from Stockholm Arlanda Airport. I had booked a one-way ticket to Wrocław Airport with Ryanair, landing in Poland just before 11 PM. Fortunately, the taxi ride to my accommodation was short, as I had selected a location near the city center.

For my stay, I chose a student dorm complex that functions as a budget hotel during the summer months. It was a practical choice for a three-night visit. While the room was simple, it offered a comfortable bed and a private bathroom, providing exactly what I needed for a solo trip focused on exploration rather than luxury.

Exploring the City of Gnomes: Wrocław

I dedicated two full days to exploring Wrocław, a city famous for being the “city of gnomes.” Small bronze statues of dwarves are scattered throughout the streets, adding a whimsical touch to the sightseeing experience. While I certainly didn’t find them all, spotting these small figures added an entertaining layer to my walks through the city.

Wrocław turned out to be a very positive surprise. In fact, it might be the most beautiful city I have visited in Poland so far, possibly rivaling Gdańsk. The atmosphere was fantastic, particularly around the Oder River, which flows through the heart of the city. Strolling around the various islands and admiring the historical architecture was a genuine pleasure.

Highlights of Wrocław

Wrocław Cathedral: The area around this landmark is impressive and well worth the walk.
Most Tumski: Crossing this bridge to the island of Wyspa Piasek offered beautiful views of the river.
Wrocławski Rynek: The historical market square is the heart of the city, framed by colorful, charming buildings.
Old Town Hall: Located directly on the main square, this is an architectural must-see.

While English has served us well in cities like Warsaw and Gdańsk, communication here proved slightly more challenging. I often found it easier to rely on German, which makes sense given Wrocław’s location near the German border and its historical ties to the region.

Quick Facts: Wrocław

Population: Approximately 674,000 inhabitants.
Location: Situated in the Lower Silesian Voivodeship in southwestern Poland.
History: The city has a complex past, having been part of the Kingdom of Poland, Bohemia, the Austrian Empire, Prussia, and Germany at different points in history.

A Brief Stop in Leszno

Eventually, it was time to move north. I took a morning train from Wrocław towards Poznań, but decided to break up the journey with a stop in Leszno. Situated roughly halfway between the two larger cities, it seemed like an ideal place to stretch my legs for two hours before catching the next train.

Navigating Leszno proved to be the first challenge of the day. The main train station is located at a distance from the center, and finding the way to Śródmieście (the Old Town) was not immediately obvious. I eventually located the main square where the town hall stands, but the town felt remarkably quiet. Even the Galeria Starówka Shopping Mall was nearly empty. I managed to find a quick lunch before returning to the station to continue my journey.

Exploring the Historical City of Poznań

I had arranged to stay at an Airbnb just outside the center of Poznań. Since I arrived earlier than the check-in time, I had to carry my luggage while getting my first glimpse of the city. My walk took me from the train station, through the main square, and across the Warta River to my accommodation.

By the time I checked in, the heat and the heavy bag had taken their toll. Instead of immediately diving into sightseeing, I spent the afternoon cooling off and relaxing at the large Posnania Shopping Mall. The proper exploration of the historical center had to wait until I had regained some energy the following day.

A Long Walk Through History

My only full day in Poznań was dedicated to walking. In the morning, I crossed the river again to properly explore the central square and the surrounding streets. Afterward, I made my way to Park Cytadela, hoping to see the remains of the old citadel and its fortifications.

Unfortunately, most of the fortifications have been demolished over the years, but the park itself provided a pleasant walk. On this particular day, the area was filled with cosplayers, which made for an interesting contrast to the historical surroundings. Like many Polish cities, the route was lined with war memorials and imposing churches. The intense heat followed me throughout the day, and my feet were undeniably tired by the time I returned to the apartment.

The Final Day: Zoo and Departure

On the final day of this adventure, I checked out and stored my bag at the train station to allow for a few hours of freedom. I decided to head in a new direction to visit the Stare Zoo (Old Zoo) before making my way to the airport.

The zoo is quite small and houses mostly reptiles and smaller animals, but it offered a cozy, park-like environment. The highlight was undoubtedly the shade provided by the old trees. With another incredibly hot day in Poznań, the cooler temperature within the park was a welcome relief.

Quick Facts: Poznań

Population: Approximately 530,000 inhabitants.
Location: Located on the Warta River in west-central Poland, in the Greater Poland Voivodeship.
History: Poznań is one of Poland’s oldest cities. It once served as the nation’s capital and is considered the birthplace of the Polish state.

Back to Stockholm Arlanda Airport

After my walk at the zoo, the final task was finding the bus to the airport. Public transport in a new city can often be confusing, and Poznań was no exception. Determining how to purchase a ticket took some effort, though I eventually found a machine on board.

The journey to the airport was uncomfortable, to say the least. The bus was crowded, baking in the sun, and lacked functioning air conditioning. While it was certainly a budget-friendly option, I found myself regretting not simply calling a taxi. I flew back to Stockholm Arlanda Airport with Ryanair, closing the chapter on a few sweltering but memorable days in Poland. I can now officially mark Poland’s 4th and 5th largest cities on my map.