Önningeby, Jomala | Exploring Åland

Önningeby is a village located in the municipality of Jomala on the main island of the Åland Islands. This small village, with a population of just over 200 inhabitants, holds a significant place in Nordic art history. It is most famous for being the site of the Önningeby artists’ colony, a vibrant group of painters who gathered here at the end of the 19th century. The village is situated in a picturesque rural landscape, a short distance from the Ålandic capital, Mariehamn.

The village’s identity is defined by this artistic heritage. It was in Önningeby that the painter Victor Westerholm established a summer colony that attracted prominent artists from Finland and Sweden. This creative period has left a lasting legacy on the village and the entire Åland Islands. Today, Önningeby is a quiet residential area, but it proudly preserves its artistic past through the Önningeby Museum. The combination of its art history and its tranquil, scenic surroundings makes it a unique and culturally rich destination.

History of Önningeby

The history of Önningeby as a significant location began in the late 19th century with the establishment of an influential artists’ colony. Before this period, it was a typical Ålandic farming village. The arrival of the painter Victor Westerholm transformed the village into a bustling center for art, attracting a diverse group of painters. This golden age lasted for several decades, and while the original colony eventually dispersed, its legacy has been carefully preserved and is the defining feature of the village’s history today.

The Önningeby Artists’ Colony

The pivotal moment in the village’s history was in 1886, when the Finnish painter Victor Westerholm purchased a summer house here, which he named Tomtebo. Westerholm had been inspired by the artists’ colonies in France, and he invited his artist friends from both Finland and Sweden to join him. This marked the beginning of the Önningeby artists’ colony (Önningebykolonin). The colony became a vibrant summer gathering place for many prominent painters of the era, who were drawn by the beautiful light and picturesque landscapes of the Åland Islands.

A Center for Plein Air Painting

The artists of the Önningeby colony were primarily focused on plein air painting, which means painting outdoors to capture the fleeting effects of light and atmosphere. The group included notable artists such as J.A.G. Acke, Hanna Rönnberg, and Elvin Ljungqvist. They painted the local scenery, the traditional farmhouses, and the daily life of the villagers. The colony was most active between 1886 and 1914, and it became one of the most important artists’ colonies in Scandinavia, contributing significantly to the development of art in both Finland and Sweden.

The Legacy and the Museum

The original artists’ colony gradually dispersed after the start of World War I. However, the legacy of this creative period was not forgotten. In the modern era, a new appreciation for the colony’s work led to the establishment of the Önningeby Museum. The museum was founded to collect, preserve, and exhibit the art created by the members of the colony. This ensures that the story of this unique artistic community is told to new generations. The museum has become the primary cultural institution in the village, and it is the main reason for its continued fame.

Sights in Önningeby

The sights in Önningeby are centered around its legacy as an artists’ colony and its beautiful rural surroundings. The main attraction is the Önningeby Museum, which houses a significant collection of art from the colony’s members. The home of the colony’s founder, Victor Westerholm, is another key historical sight. The nearby St. Olaf’s Church in Jomala is one of the oldest churches in Finland and a major architectural landmark. The surrounding landscape, with its fields and coastline, remains as picturesque as it was when it was first captured on canvas by the colony’s painters.

Önningeby Museum

The Önningeby Museum is the cultural heart of the village. The museum was founded in 1992 and is housed in a historic stone barn. Its primary mission is to showcase the works of the artists who were part of the Önningeby artists’ colony. The collection includes paintings by Victor Westerholm, Hanna Rönnberg, and many others. The museum provides a comprehensive look at the different styles and subjects of the colony’s painters. It is an essential visit for anyone interested in Nordic art history from the late 19th century.

Tomtebo

Tomtebo was the summer house and studio of the painter Victor Westerholm, the founder of the artists’ colony. The picturesque wooden villa is located in Önningeby, and it served as the central gathering place for the artists. The house and its surrounding garden were a frequent subject in the paintings of the colony’s members. Today, Tomtebo is a privately owned residence and is not open to the public. However, its exterior can be admired from the road, and it stands as a historic monument to the founder of this important artistic community.

Jonesas Gård

Jonesas Gård is a historic farmstead located in Önningeby that has been preserved as part of the museum. The old farmhouse and its outbuildings provide a glimpse into the traditional way of life on the Åland Islands during the 19th century. This was the very environment that the artists of the colony lived in and painted. The farmstead is part of the cultural landscape that the museum aims to preserve. It provides a historical context for the art that was created in the village, showing the daily life that surrounded the artists.

Getting Around

Navigating Önningeby and the surrounding Jomala municipality is best done by car or bicycle. The village is located in a rural area, and while there are public bus services, they may not be very frequent. A car provides the most flexibility for exploring the different sights on the Åland Islands. Cycling is also an excellent option, as the terrain is relatively flat and the distances between villages are not too great. The main roads are well-maintained, and there is an extensive network of separate cycle paths.

Navigating by Car

A car is the most convenient way to explore Önningeby and the wider Åland Islands. The village is located just a short, ten-minute drive from the capital, Mariehamn. Having a car makes it easy to take day trips to other major attractions, such as the Kastelholm Castle or the fortress ruins at Bomarsund. Car rentals are available in Mariehamn, which is the main arrival point for ferries. The roads are generally in good condition and traffic is light, making for a pleasant driving experience.

Exploring by Bicycle

The Åland Islands are a paradise for cyclists, and exploring by bicycle is a highly recommended option. The landscape around Önningeby is relatively flat, and there is an extensive network of well-marked cycle paths that are often separated from car traffic. A bike ride is a great way to experience the beautiful rural scenery at a leisurely pace. You can easily cycle from Önningeby to Mariehamn or to other nearby sights like the Jomala Church. Bike rentals are widely available in Mariehamn.

Using Local Buses

The Ålandstrafiken is the public transport authority that operates the bus network on the islands. There are local bus services that connect Önningeby with Mariehamn and other villages in Jomala. However, the services in rural areas may be infrequent, especially on weekends. It is important to check the current timetable in advance if you plan to rely on public transport. The main bus terminal is located in Mariehamn, and from there you can connect to routes that serve the entire main island.

How to Get to Önningeby?

Önningeby is located on the main island of the Åland Islands, an autonomous region of Finland. The primary way to reach the islands is by ferry from either Sweden or mainland Finland. The main ferry ports are in the capital city, Mariehamn, and in Eckerö. There is also an airport in Mariehamn with flights from Stockholm, Helsinki, and Turku. Once on the Åland Islands, Önningeby is just a short drive from the main arrival points.

Arriving by Ferry

The vast majority of visitors arrive on the Åland Islands by ferry. There are several major ferry companies, including Viking Line, Tallink Silja, and Eckerö Linjen, that operate regular services from ports in Sweden like Stockholm and Kapellskär, and from ports in Finland like Turku and Helsinki. Most of the large cruise ferries stop in Mariehamn. The crossing is a scenic journey through the beautiful archipelago. From the ferry terminal in Mariehamn, it is a short drive of about ten minutes to Önningeby.

Arriving by Air

The Åland Islands have one airport, Mariehamn Airport (MHQ). The airport is located just a few kilometers from the city of Mariehamn. There are regular flights to Mariehamn from Stockholm-Arlanda Airport (ARN) in Sweden, Helsinki-Vantaa Airport (HEL), and Turku Airport (TKU) in Finland. The flights are short, making it a quick way to reach the islands. From the airport, you can take a taxi or rent a car to reach Önningeby, which is a very short drive away.

From Mariehamn

Once you have arrived on the Åland Islands, either by ferry or by plane, Önningeby is very easy to reach. The village is located in the municipality of Jomala, which is directly adjacent to the capital city of Mariehamn. It is approximately a 7-kilometer drive from the center of Mariehamn to Önningeby. The drive is straightforward and takes only about 10 minutes. The village is located on the main road that leads east from Mariehamn towards the municipality of Lemland.