Seeking the Sunset Further North | Arctic Tour 2024 [2/14]

We left the commercial hub of Tuuri around lunchtime on our second day. This meant that we did not have as much time to explore new places. The main goal for the day was to cover a significant distance northwards. We still managed to explore one new city as we continued our journey. This was the day that we drove to the coastal city of Kokkola. Our final stop for the night was the famous seaside resort of Kalajoki. With Midsummer’s Eve just a few days away, the Nordic countries offer great sunsets, and we were seeking these last few before entering the land of the midnight sun.

This part of our journey took us through the region of Ostrobothnia (Pohjanmaa in Finnish). This is a large, distinctive region on the western coast of Finland, bordering the Gulf of Bothnia. The landscape here is characterized by its vast, flat plains, which are heavily used for agriculture. It also has numerous rivers that flow into the sea. The region has a significant Swedish-speaking population, which gives it a bilingual and bicultural character. Ostrobothnia is also known for the geological phenomenon of post-glacial rebound, where the land is still slowly rising after the last ice age.

A Bike Ride Through Kokkola

The first leg of the day was the drive to Kokkola, a journey of around 170 kilometers to the north. The main purpose of our stop was to visit one of Susann’s old relatives. While my travel companions planned their visit, I looked for a possibility to explore the city. I was very happy that we had brought our bikes along on the trip. It opened up the perfect opportunity for a quick sightseeing tour. We made an initial stop at a shopping center on the outskirts of Kokkola. While Susann and her mother explored the supermarket, I prepared my bike for the ride.

I was going to bike through the city and meet up with them again on the other side, at the home of the relative. So, I set off from the shopping center towards the city center. The center of Kokkola itself did not have much to offer at first glance. There were, however, some pleasant views along the Sunti, a small river which flows through the center. While not finding many major sights, I instead began to cycle along the river towards the coast. Just a few kilometers away, this river flows out into the Baltic Sea. It was here that I finally found a view to enjoy. Passing by the marina and cycling out along the beach, the sea breeze was finally noticeable.

An Impressive Sunset in Kalajoki

With the evening fast approaching, we eventually continued our journey north from Kokkola. We had set our target for the night on a campsite not too far away. The large holiday resort of Kalajoki was just around 60 kilometers further up the coast. With a famous beach located there, we hoped that Little A would get the possibility to go for a swim. We reached the campsite and soon had the motorhome backed up just a few meters from the beach and the Baltic Sea. We had a great view of the sea and were able to enjoy a late dinner.

While Susann’s mother was cooking, Little A and I headed down to the beach. We just had to take the opportunity to go for a swim while the sun was still up. The sky on the horizon was becoming increasingly colorful. It was clear that it was going to be an impressive sunset in Kalajoki. How about the water temperature? Let’s just say that I did not go further than to get my legs wet. It was still quite early in the summer. Little A, however, went for a proper swim and did not seem to mind at all that the water was far from warm.

A Late Evening Beer

After dinner, Susann’s father and I decided to take our bikes and head out to explore the area. The three others in our group prepared for bed while we cycled away into the late evening light. Well, we did not get far. Just up the hill from the beach, we found a small and cozy bar with an outdoor terrace. We decided to change our plans and sat down for a beer instead. It was, after all, a vacation and a time to enjoy these small moments. It felt like a perfect way to end a long day of driving.

While we drank our beer, several mosquitoes also made sure to drink our blood. For this reason, we did not stay for too long. After our short break, we eventually cycled around a little bit in the area. We found a few good viewpoints overlooking the beach. It is a steep climb up from the beach area, which also meant that it was a fast and enjoyable ride back down to the campsite in the twilight. It had been a nice evening, and we went to sleep with the sun just below the horizon.

Kalajoen Hietasärkät, Kalajoki, Finland, Henry's Saloon

Cycling in the Morning Rain

The sunset had been so fully visible the evening before. It was quite a surprise to find that it was raining when we woke up. We had seen this risk in the weather forecast, but it was not something we had wanted to plan for. The sound of rain on the roof of the motorhome is quite a cozy sound. It is, however, not ideal for outdoor activities. The weather in the Nordic summer can be very unpredictable.

While the rest of my travel companions ate breakfast and got ready for the day inside, I decided to take the bike. My goal was to go to the village of Kalajoki. The main beach resort and the village itself are actually located a few kilometers away from each other. So, with what seemed like limited rainfall, I hoped that I would be able to go back and forth without getting too wet. I was quite wet as I finally saw the Kalajoki Church ahead of me. I just took a short sightseeing tour through the village before heading back. It had then finally stopped raining, and I could enjoy the ride back.

The Last Sunset Before the Arctic

Getting the possibility to exercise in the morning had prepared me for the hours of driving that were ahead of us. We were going to continue a lot further north on this day. We had now spent two days traveling through the coastal region of Ostrobothnia. It was now time to head further inland towards Lapland. The impressive sunset we had seen in Kalajoki was significant for another reason. We realized that this was the last proper sunset we would see for a few days. Our journey was about to take us across the Arctic Circle, into the land of the midnight sun.