Reindeer Encounters in Lapland | Arctic Tour 2024 [10/14]

Waking up at the shores of Lake Ukonjärvi, just a short distance north of Ivalo, was the start of a day that would include plenty of reindeer sightings. We had already seen many reindeer in Norway and also had an encounter in Inari. This day, however, would be filled with them at every turn. We did have to create these turns from time to time, as the main road through the forest offered too few sights. Our target had been set on a night in Kemijärvi. Along the road, we had places such as the ski resort in Saariselkä and the mining town of Tankavaara. It was set to be another day of exploration, the tenth of fourteen parts of our Arctic Tour.

Cycling to Ivalo

While my company prepared themselves in the morning, I decided to take the bike to Ivalo ahead of the motorhome. It was nice that we had been able to repair my flat tire the night before. Back on my own bike, I was able to get to Ivalo with plenty of time to also take a small tour around the village. It was a sunny morning and the small town was just waking up as I looked around. I was almost considering continuing even further south when I got the call from Susann that they had arrived in Ivalo with the motorhome.

The Ski Resort of Saariselkä

Just south of Ivalo is the ski resort of Saariselkä. The mountain of Kaunispää is today a part of the resort. It was once home to one of the triangulation stations that was used to survey the area in the mid-20th century. We opted to drive to the top of the mountain to enjoy our lunch with a view of the vast wilderness below. After eating, Susann, Little A, and I got a chance to walk around a bit as well. It is possible to see a very long distance from the small watchtower at the summit, with endless forests and fells stretching to the horizon.

Getting everyone back in the car after lunch usually takes some time. So, I did once more take the bike to get down to the village of Saariselkä to explore. Riding down the 438-meter-high mountain was a lot of fun. I did, however, need to brake hard halfway down. In the middle of the path was a large group of reindeer. One thing is for sure: reindeer are like cows in that they do not move just because they see a cyclist approaching. I had enough time to cycle around the center of Saariselkä before the others caught up with me. The village itself mostly consists of hotels and resorts, and we were really out of season, so it was very quiet.

Kaunispää, Finland, Observation Tower, Utsiktstorn

The Gold Mines of Tankavaara

From Saariselkä, we continued south for just a short bit until we reached Tankavaara. This is the Finnish gold village and was once the site of gold prospecting in Lapland. Now it is a tourist site showcasing the history as well as the activity of gold panning. For us, it was just a reason to stop and enjoy the open-air museum. We also had a chance to say hello to the reindeer that were wandering around the parking lot. The possible tranquility of the area was, however, disturbed by what I assume were horse-flies.

Large flies that probably looked for someone to bite were hovering around some of us. I cannot even remember how many I hit with the back of my phone. It would not be the last time that we encountered these flying beasts on our trip. Even the mosquitoes felt easier to manage than these large, persistent insects. We never entered the gold museum itself. We did, however, get to experience the local atmosphere. The collection of old buildings looked a lot more like a scene from the American Wild West than from northern Finland.

Short stops in Sodankylä and Pelkosenniemi

We continued south through the seemingly endless forests of Finnish Lapland. We were heading towards Kemijärvi for the evening, but first, we were going to have two short stops. The first one was in Sodankylä, where Susann and I headed out for a short walk. We went down to the river to get a good view of our surroundings. By following the distinct smell of tar, we were able to find the beautiful old wooden church. We also found our way to a few of the reindeer sculptures that are located in the town.

Our second short stop was in the even smaller village of Pelkosenniemi. This is where we got to say hi to the sculpture of Andy McCoy. No, I had no idea who this guy was. Apparently, he is a famous Finnish musician who has been a part of the rock band Hanoi Rocks. I did not know of that band either. It was, however, an interesting and unexpected piece of public art to find in such a small and remote village. It is these small, surprising discoveries that often make a road trip so memorable.

A Evening in Kemijärvi

We did eventually reach Kemijärvi, the northernmost town in Finland. We had been able to cover many kilometers on our way south through the forests of Finnish Lapland. One advantage when traveling this far north in June is that it never gets dark. This meant that our Little A had plenty of time to play at the campsite in the evening without the risk of it getting too dark. It also meant that Susann’s father and I could take our bikes and try to find somewhere nice for a beer in the evening.

This quest turned out to be a complete failure, as we were unable to find an open bar. We were not even able to find a bar that was closed. Either they are very well-hidden, or the northernmost town in Finland is also the driest town in Finland. Instead of a beer, we got to explore the town and find some nice views of the river. It had been a long day of driving and exploring, and we were all ready for a good night’s sleep before continuing our journey south the next day.