Kaunas, Lithuania | Summer Weekend in Kaunas 2024

The summer of 2024 was truly a season of adventure for us. Just a few weeks after visiting Tallinn, it was time to return to the Baltic States. We had already completed our Arctic Tour and my solo trip to Poland. Now, the calendar was set for a final summer weekend in Kaunas, the second-largest city in Lithuania.

This trip offered a mix of sunshine and rain, introducing us to a city we had not yet explored. It was also a special milestone for Little A. This visit marked her 26th country, adding another imaginary stamp to her young virtual passport.

Evening Flight from Stockholm Arlanda Airport

On a Friday evening, we headed to Stockholm Arlanda Airport after finishing our work week. The flight across the Baltic Sea to Lithuania is short, but the one-hour time difference makes the journey feel slightly longer. By the time we landed in Kaunas, darkness had already engulfed the city.

Fortunately, the taxi ride to the city center was quick. We had booked a room at an apartment hotel for the weekend, one of the few places that was still affordable and offered late check-in. It turned out to be a spacious apartment located right on one of the main pedestrian streets, a location that proved very useful throughout the weekend.

A Sunny Day in Kaunas

Given our late arrival, we didn’t wake up particularly early on Saturday morning. We took our time and headed down to a coffee shop downstairs for croissants and, for Susann, the essential morning coffee. Although the morning started with some clouds, the sun soon broke through, heating up the city significantly.

We began by exploring the historical quarters, heading towards the central square at the Town Hall. The city is full of cozy streets lined with restaurants. Before diving deeper into sightseeing, we decided to backtrack slightly to visit an interesting Georgian restaurant we had spotted. It was the perfect spot for a relaxed lunch.

The Castle and the Confluence

Our walk eventually took us down to the shores of the Nemunas River. We walked out towards the confluence where it meets the Neris River, enjoying the scenic views. From there, we circled back to the city’s main landmark: Kaunas Castle.

The red brick castle stands out beautifully against the greenery. However, we decided not to enter the castle this time. The sun was shining with full strength, and the heat made it difficult to walk around for too long. Instead, we returned to the cool apartment to rest and plan our afternoon.

A Walk Down Laisvės Alėja

In the afternoon, we headed in the opposite direction, away from the Old Town. We walked along the famous pedestrian street, Laisvės Alėja (Liberty Avenue), towards the imposing Church of St. Michael the Archangel. This long boulevard is lined with restaurants, bars, and shops, making it the vibrant heart of the city.

We stopped for ice cream and eventually ended up at the Akropolis Shopping Mall. This detour was actually intentional, as we needed to do some emergency shopping due to a minor wardrobe malfunction. On the way back, we found a restaurant for dinner. While the meal itself was a bit disappointing, the evening ended on a high note. We sat down at a bar for drinks, and Little A was more than happy with her milkshake.

Quick Facts: Kaunas

• History: Kaunas served as the temporary capital of Lithuania during the interwar period (1920–1939), leading to a boom in modernist architecture
• Population: Approximately 300,000 inhabitants.
• Location: Situated at the confluence of the two largest Lithuanian rivers, the Nemunas and the Neris.

An Evening Walk in Kaunas

While the ladies prepared for bed, I headed back out to explore the historical center under the cover of darkness. I was not disappointed. The illuminated buildings transformed the atmosphere completely.

The streets felt even cozier at night. The Town Hall was beautifully lit, casting a glow over the central square. Even better was the castle, which was perfectly illuminated to create a slightly ghostly, yet majestic, feeling. Seeing a city at night often changes your perspective on its main sights.

A Rainy Day in Kaunas

Sunday morning greeted us with gray skies and steady rain. Hoping for better weather later in the day, we headed back to the Akropolis Shopping Mall. On our way, we walked across Nemuno Sala, an island in the river that houses the large Žalgiris Arena.

We spent some time shopping, which eventually became a bit tedious for everyone except Little A. When hunger struck, we returned to the pedestrian street Laisvės Alėja and found a nice Italian restaurant for lunch.

As Susann and Little A walked slowly back towards the apartment, I took a detour for a short visit to the Vytautas the Great War Museum. By a lucky coincidence, the museum was free to enter as it was the last Sunday of the month.

Unfortunately, the weather did not improve. No matter how long we waited, the rain continued to pour outside our window. However, this is part of traveling; it isn’t always sunshine. We spent the afternoon relaxing in the apartment, appreciating the extra space compared to a standard hotel room.

A Tradition of Tikka Masala

For dinner, we ventured back out into the rain, heading towards the historical quarters. We found a cozy Indian restaurant tucked away in a small alley. Sharing a Tikka Masala has become something of a family tradition. After trying it for the first time in Malta some years ago, it is a returning request from Little A.

Afterward, we returned to the bar where we had enjoyed drinks the night before. This time, we ordered a proper dessert of waffles and ice cream to end the day.

Stormy Weather and Departure

Monday morning brought weather that was even worse than Sunday’s. A storm had reached Kaunas, bringing both heavy rain and strong winds. Since we had to check out of the apartment, our options were limited. We had no choice but to return to the shelter of the Akropolis Shopping Mall.

Little A and I braved the rain briefly to check the train station for luggage storage options. Sadly, space was limited, and we had no interest in dragging our bags around in the storm. Consequently, we spent our final hours at the shopping center, having a proper lunch and letting Little A burn off energy at the play center.

Going Back to Sweden

We arrived at the airport much earlier than necessary, mostly because we were bored and wanted to check in the car seat. As I stood in the queue for the baggage drop, I unexpectedly ran into a colleague from Gothenburg. It is a reminder of how small the world can be sometimes.

The atmosphere at the airport was quite surreal. Our evening flight seemed to be one of the few civilian departures. Instead, the terminal was crowded with military personnel. Several unmarked flights appeared to be taking off for Germany, none of which were shown on the departure boards.

Eventually, the military personnel boarded their flights, leaving the terminal quiet. We ate a simple dinner at the small Asian restaurant in the departure hall before boarding our Ryanair flight. It was time to fly back to Stockholm Arlanda and conclude a summer full of adventures.

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